A 40-Year Quest to Save Vietnam's Vanishing Mỹ Tho Noodle Tradition

For over 40 years, Trương Văn Thuận has kept the tradition of Mỹ Tho noodle-making alive. Based in Mỹ Phong Ward, Đồng Thạp Province, he leads a cooperative dedicated to crafting these delicate rice noodles. His decades of work have helped preserve a craft that relies on skill, patience, and the right weather conditions.

The process of making Mỹ Tho noodles is meticulous. It begins with soaking and grinding rice before treating, cooking, and shaping the batter. Once formed, the noodles are left to dry in the sun for roughly three hours—though this depends entirely on the weather. If conditions are poor, drying must be done in a kiln, a slower and more labour-intensive method.

In 2007, the local government recognised the craft's importance and set up a production cooperative. Support came in the form of loans, technology upgrades, and promotional efforts. Despite this, Thuận faced early struggles, including unstable prices for materials and a lack of proper infrastructure.

A well-made Mỹ Tho noodle should be translucent and slightly chewy. Thuận's children have chosen not to continue the family trade, leaving him to carry on alone. Though he plans to retire eventually, he remains committed to the craft for as long as he is able.

Trương Văn Thuận's work ensures that Mỹ Tho noodles remain a part of Đồng Thạp's heritage. The cooperative he leads continues to produce them using traditional methods, despite challenges like weather and labour demands. Without new generations taking over, the future of this craft remains uncertain.